Surf

In 2 weeks I will head to Oahu for a visit. I feel like coming back HOME! I have been thinking about surfing a lot recently. Within the first weeks after I had arrived on Oahu, a friend, Kurt, gave me a board, took me to Waikiki and told me to paddle around for now. I did not understand what he said and took off. It took me one try to stand up. I surfed wave after wave for about 15 minutes. I did not know how to take it from there so I paddled back in. I think being a gymnast makes it easy to learn surfing. Thereafter I surfed every morning for sunrise. I did so for about a year or so, then sold my boards, because triathlon took over. I think the biggest I have ever surfed was 5-6 foot Hawaiian measures. This picture was taken on Xmas Day 2008. Some friends were heading out for a morning MTB ride up St Louis with T1 to surfing and T2 for a drink at Hilton on the beach. Paradise!
The plans for my trip: Get a surf in!!